Old School Mexico City

I fell in love with Mexico City when I was fifteen. It was a high school Spanish class trip. Till this day I still can’t believe my parents allowed me to go. I didn’t know much Spanish. It wasn’t even my high school. Someone dropped out last minute and somehow, since I had a friend that was going, they made arrangements for me to go too. We scrambled to get my birth certificate, since, at that time, passports weren’t required. I’d never been out of the country and had only flown once. To say my mom was worried about me going was an understatement. But I went.

I had no idea how that one trip would influence me. As the late Anthony Bourdain said “travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however slow. And in return, life and travel, leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks, on your body or on your heart, are beautiful. Often though, they hurt.”

The Cathedral

As a girl raised in the South in the seventies I’d venture to say I’d never seen a Mexican. Let alone millions. Houses stacked up like Jenga blocks on mountains at an altitude higher than I’d ever been. It must have been a smogless day when we flew in because I’ll never forget how far the city stretched.

I also remember the people without homes. Homelessness and people begging wasn’t something I had ever experienced. It definitely made an impression. I had a newfound gratefulness for my life and the privileges it came with.

 

 

That trip also left me with a desire to learn Spanish. All it took was getting separated from half the class and the teachers, that spoke Spanish, on the city’s Metro train. Notorious for it’s fast closing doors and crowds, I’ll never forget the look on the teacher’s faces, as the six of us that got on, pulled away from the station. How we made it back to where we needed to be, I’ll never know. From that moment I was determined to learn Spanish.

Mexico City, el Distrito Federal or more commonly referred to as “el DF”, to this day, is one of the most exciting, complex, and somewhat overwhelming cities I’ve ever been to. A lot has changed. There are more people. There are more cars. There are more modern and hipper neighborhoods with museums, coffee shops and trendy eateries. But for as much as it’s changed, a lot has stayed the same.

I’ve been back several times since that first trip. Recently I had the chance to go again, solo. I knew I wanted to revisit the older, more historical Mexico City again, and try to rediscover the wonder I had experienced at fifteen. Throw in a couple of new experiences and it was the perfect weekend. I still don’t know if I left my mark on Mexico City but it definitely left it’s mark on me.

 

Mexico City is a non stop flight on most carriers from larger US cities and some European cities. Travel requires a passport but you do not need a visa. Mexico uses an online system which allows citizens of eligible countries traveling by air to obtain electronic authorization to travel to Mexico for tourism or business purposes without a visa. The United States is one of those eligible countries.

Travel within the country is super efficient as well. Aeromexico, Interjet and Volaris all offer frequent flights within Mexico, to Mexico City from most other cities. Once you are in Mexico City, getting around is also very easy. Depending on your budget you could ride a train, bus, taxi or Uber.

The Historic Center is about thirty minutes from the airport. If you’ve read any of my posts, you know I’m a huge fan of Uber in Mexico. Uber is so popular there is an Instagram page that features things that have been said or that have happened on an Uber ride. The service is excellent and the cars are new. Many cities feature Uber Pool which allows you to share a ride to budget your money. Unlike in some smaller cities, Uber is available at the Mexico City airport too.

Some hotels do offer shuttle service but it’s usually an additional fee and the fee is more than an Uber ride. Once you are in the Historic Zone, it’s easier to walk than ride. Walking is very safe and you will see a lot of police keeping this area safe. Even late at night.

Unfortunately, I still have not conquered my fear of the Metro. After the getting separated incident, I have not ridden it again. It is super efficient and fast, with convenient stations located all over the city. I’ll have to save info about it for another trip and another post. I’m determined to ride it again! Until then, here’s a great post.

There is no shortage of great places to eat and drink in the city. Here are a few of my favorites in the historic district.

La Opera Bar  How about a cantina that opened in 1876? As one of Mexico City’s oldest bars, the Opera Bar is a great place to take a break after walking around in “el Centro Historico”. Opened by two French brothers, it’s pretty ornate for a cantina. You can definitely see the French influence. The who’s who’s of Mexico City have been going there for years. Even Pacho Villa visited and there’s a bullet hole to prove it. I sat at the bar for a drink and una botana or appetizer. It’s very common to be served an small bite of something when ordering a drink in Mexico. I was served refried beans and chips with my Paloma, a cocktail made with either grapefruit soda or mineral water and grapefruit juice and of course, Tequila. You can also order a meal.

The ceiling at the Opera Bar
La Opera Bar

Zinco Jazz Club  There are so many interesting buildings in Mexico City so I love to see ones that have been re purposed. Zinco is a jazz club in an old bank. You enter into an unassuming outside door, go up some steps and then down into what was once the vault for a total speakeasy experience. Inside, it’s a small, intimate space with a stage offering live music, food and cocktails. I had a Mezcalini with you guessed it, mezcal, tamarind, orange juice and cointreau. Reservations are recommended especially on a Friday or Saturday night. There’s no cover charge unless there’s a special band playing. Check the website for the calendar.

Zinco Jazz Club
The stage at Zinco

La Casa de los Azulejos or House of Tiles since this “house” has exterior walls made of blue and white tiles from the Mexican state of Puebla. It was once a private house but has since been purchased by Sanborns, which is a chain of Mexican department stores and restaurants. Their flagship restaurant is located there and the work they have done on this place is incredible. Even if you don’t eat there, it’s worth a look inside. Courtyards, fountains and more tile. However, you should eat there. The enchilada suiza was stuff dreams are made of. Served with the freshest salsa on their signature blue and white china. You can eat in the main dining room or there is counter service in another room if you don’t want the fanfare of the dining room.

The tile facade of Casa de los Azulejos
The courtyard
Dining room

In keeping with my old school theme, I stayed at Hotel Catedral, a historic hotel just steps from the Zocolo or central square, which by the way is the largest in Mexico. You can easily walk to the Cathedral, obviously, the National Palace and the points of interest mentioned in this post, as well as other popular places. They offer a really good breakfast buffet, concierge services and accommodating staff. Some of the rooms have small balconies.

Language– Most hotels in Mexico City have someone on their staff that speaks Spanish so you don’t have to worry if your Spanish isn’t the best.

Money– Always change your dollars into pesos. If you pay with dollars, you will get pesos back in change and the exchange rate will not be good. Banks and ATMs have the best rates, with the change houses or caja de cambios next. The hotels usually do not offer a competitive rate.  Always keep some small bills and change for tips.

Safety– I mentioned earlier, the Historic District is safe but as in any big city, watch your wallet, purse or backpack. I always use a cross body bag with a sturdy strap. One of my favorites is a PacSafe bag.

Weather– Because of the altitude of Mexico City, it can be a little cool, even in the spring and summer months. Carry a sweater or light jacket and even closed toe shoes. When I was there in May I was happy I had carried some booties. It was rainy and the boots came in handy on the cobblestone streets of the historic area where the water pooled.

Have you already been to Mexico City? Let me know what you enjoyed about it and if you liked this article please share.

Mexico City Angel of Independence