Reykjavik wasn’t the reason I went to Iceland but it ended up being one of my favorite surprises. From Harpa and the Sun Voyager to fish and chips in the Old Harbor and chasing the Northern Lights at the lighthouse — here’s what’s actually worth your time in Iceland’s capital.

Iceland has a reputation for being expensive — and that’s not entirely wrong. But knowing what to expect before you go makes a big difference. I’m breaking down exactly what I spent on my four days traveling solo.

Iceland packs more into four days than most destinations manage in two weeks. In this post I’m sharing exactly how I did it — from geothermal hot springs and glaciers to small coastal towns and the Northern Lights — so you can make the most of every hour